Diamond tool holder uk

Thanks for showing the video. Joined Jul 28, Messages 1, Owning a small desktop mill, hogging out large amounts of metal is very time-consuming for me. So I look for ways to speed things up where I can. Depending on the item I'm making, I may use my bandsaw to rough out some portions. In others, I will use my slitting saw instead of turning the whole volume of removed metal into small bits of swarf.

If feasible, I also have separated the item into several different pieces and then assembled them into a whole. I found a design for a tangential tool holder that uses the latter approach, and, in addition, splits the two different angles among two separate parts, rather than needing a complicated setup to mill the compound angle needed for a one-piece approach.

This should work OK for me because I'm using a Norman Patent style of QCTP and can split the angles between the main block that mounts on the post and a second piece that will bolt onto a sloped face of the block. The design can be found in the groups. Folks who have dovetail-style QCTPs may not find this approach all that interesting.

I'm wondering about a design that uses an even simpler scheme to achieve the required clearances. Mill an angled vertical slot on the face of the QCTP block, then rotate it by a small angle when you install it on the lathe.

Just one easy-to-mill angle. Here's a sketch showing the working face of such a holder, with a cutter installed: In this view, the upper-right corner of the cutter is presented to the work, so I'm showing the back of the holder relative to the operator, Not shown: the holder is rotated so the tip of the cutter is pointing slightly away from you.

NOTE: I edited this because I originally and mistakenly indicated that the holder needs to be rotated CCW, and thus can't foul the chuck, but that was incorrect. The holder must be rotated CW to get the proper relief angles. However, I still don't think the holder is likely to strike the chuck before the cutter would. This due to the fact that the chuck jaws extend from the front of the chuck, so there's some leeway there.

If oriented correctly, I'm thinking this holder could also be used to face a workpiece, too. Not shown: fixing screws to hold the cutter in place. Oh, and the grind angle of the cutter isn't right -- it should be arranged so there's some positive rake when it's presented to the work it IS just a sketch, right? Resharpening is fast and simple using the supplied grinding jig. Just clamp the tool bit in the jig and run it across a regular bench grinder.

Due to the design of the holder, this is the only face that needs grinding. Using the same jig, it is easy to grind the angles for a 55 or 60 degree screw cutting tip by using the V groove at the front of the jig.

For more information on the Diamond Tool Holder click the Features and Tips button, or watch the video of the tool in action. For information on how to select the correct size tool for your lathe, click the Sizes and Ordering button. We use cookies on our website. Some of them are essential for the operation of the site, while others help us to improve this site and the user experience tracking cookies.

I just found I had been logged out when clicking the post button but using the back arrow on the browser displayed the page I had just typed which enabled me to copy it before logging back in. Re your second para. I might put my version of the threading tool holder on the SMEE stand at Harrogate, but it will not impress anyone just sitting there, it really has to be demonstrated to show how well it works.

This will have to wait for Sandown at the end of the year. PS when you log in, click the box that says "remember me" and you don't get timed out so much. Noting also that on a tangential toolholder one can chip the tip - as you can with any HSS. But then of course most of the Godly, tend to get the tool at centre height, and only rarely get caught with an unsupported free end that does an upward jump at an untoward moment.

The trouble is that there is an awful lot of carbide. I'm not a great fan of those painted coloured tools with carbide brazed on. I find the carbide pretty brittle, and a pain to sharpen. Go now to indexable carbide, and despite the interrupted cuts, you don't see too many milling cutters failing from brittle loadings. If you look at the Sandvik catalogue which is the only one I have! Finishing, medium machining and roughing. And within each section, you have different tips for good, average and difficult conditions.

I accept that HSS is more forgiving, and I still love my tangential, but those who write carbide off as being too brittle are being a little hasty. I agree it can be expensive to have a tip for every material and every set of conditions, but like everything else, its tools for the job.

And one is darned glad of a tough grade when you hit a hard spot in a casting, because that will have your HSS in bits quick as blinking. There are times when the only tool for the job is made from Tungsten or Titanium Carbide and there are times when a HSS tool is more than adequate, if not ideal, for the job. Anyone who chooses one to the exclusion of the other is working with one hand tied behind their back. In defence of the HSS user, there are so many Carbide tips that the chances of the rank amateur picking the right tip is negligible.

As for brazed tips they come ground but not sharpened so beware, and yes they are cheaply made from cheap grade carbide. Milling cutter tips are much less brittle but then they are not really suitable for turning are they? I really like the point about one hand tied behind one's back - the only thing about HSS is you have to be able to sharpen it effectively, and effectively is a personal definition. The beauty of the tangential is that it's so simple to sharpen but, that's only the knife tool, and some of us have a whole garage full of QC holders all with tools in use fitted.

To get the best out of HSS, there are many types of tool that one needs over a career, some ground accurately, that some sort of sharpening device is necessary. Whilst there are some who claim not, they are up against enough heavyweights to be safely ignored. GHT, Tubal Cain, Ivan Law, Bradley - in fact there is hardly a writer of any authority on the subject of ME who doesn't regard some kind of controlled sharpening as essential and that's before you start tackling drills and milling cutters.

Maybe I just need to get better at grinding offhand -but then why should I? When I can have it perfect - out of a dispenser or off the grinder.? Magazine Locator. View All Topics. Community Sites. Model Flying Model Boats. Model Engineering Get Woodworking. Bulleid Sheffield visit.

Subscribe Now Great savings Delivered to your door. Renew Now Dont miss an issue! Renew your sub now. Back Issues. I have recently watched the sales demo video on the diamond tool holder which seem very impressive. But more than grinding them from existing tool steel You could make one - of course, and Circlip and others will quite rightly push you in that direction. John no connection to Diamond Tools. Hi Chris, Chris S I for one would be interested in making one of these tool holders If you can find the time to write it up.

Hi Chris S, I am with Les on this and am also interested in making your adapted tool holder. Regards, Hugh. Hi Circlip, The diamond tool holder is slightly different to the tangential one. Hi Circlip, If one wishes to be more correct, it was manufactured in the mid Victorian era, circa you can do the maths, and was called the "Haydon Tool Holder" or "Cutter Bar".

Vol 1 No7 July Model Engineer and Amature Electrician shows a tangential tool holder, it uses round pieces of tool steel. Ian S C. G'day to all. Hi Guys, Sorry Les, I don't quite see the point you are making. Hi Chris, When I thought about Meyrick's comments about the geometry of the diamond tool and the tangential tool I realised he was right.

Hi Les, Well done for making a holder, you wont regret the time spent on it. One for the heretical anti- carbide -ite s.